Jewelry Through the Ages: Edwardian Period

The Edwardian Period began when Edward succeeded his mother, Queen Victoria, as King of England. This period lasted from 1901 to 1910. Edward was a leader amongst the fashionable, with a fondness for art and fashions from Continental Europe. Art in this era was greatly influenced by the development of cars and electricity as well as Art Nouveau.  

Characteristics of jewelry from this period include:

• Expensive gems (diamonds, emeralds, rubies)
• Elaborate designs
• Light and delicate

The pin pictured right is an example of Edwardian-style jewelry.

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Monday Marvels: The Sancy Diamond

The Sancy Diamond is a 55.23-carat, pale yellow diamond that is likely Indian of origin. This diamond is a shield-shaped cut with two back-to-back crowns.

The known history of the diamond dates back to approximately 1570 and is quite long and colorful. Below is an approximate timeline:

1570: Purchased by Nicolas de Harlay, seigneur de Sancy, the French ambassador to Turkey. Between approximately 1570 and 1605, de Sancy loaned the gem to Henry III of France, who used it to decorate the cap that concealed his premature baldness. He also loaned the gem to Henry IV to use as security for funding his army.

1605: Sold by de Sancy to James I.

1669: Possessed briefly by Charles I and then his third son, James II. James later sold the diamond to Cardinal Mazarin of France, who gave it to the queen.

1828: Purchased by Prince Demidoff. The history is largely unknown prior to this date.

1865: Sold to an Indian prince, who sold it again a year later.

1867: Displayed at the Paris Exposition for a million francs.

1906: Bought, after another period of unknown ownership, by William Waldorf Astor. It remained with the Astor family for 72 years.

1978: Sold to the Louvre, where it now resides in the Apollo Gallery.

Jewelry Through the Ages: Arts and Crafts Period

The Arts and Crafts period for jewelry lasted from 1894 to 1923. Arts and Crafts was an international design movement led by artist and writer William Morris. As a result of industrialization, there was a rekindling of the desire for handcrafted items, particularly ones that highlighted the natural beauty of a particular item or material.

Characteristics of jewelry from this period include:

• Simple in pattern
• Colorful, uncut stones
• Handmade craftsmanship

The items pictured right are examples of Arts and Crafts-style jewelry.

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Monday Marvels: The DeLong Star Ruby

The DeLong Star Ruby is a 100.32-carat, oval-shaped asteriated cabochon. It was discovered in the 1930s in Burma and sold to Edith Haggin DeLong (hence the name) for $21,000. She later donated the ruby to the American Museum of Natural History in New York.

The ruby attained notoriety in 1964 when it was stolen in a jewelry heist by Jack Roland Murphy. While some of the other gems stolen at the same time were recovered, the DeLong ruby remained missing. It was finally recovered after being ransomed through third parties for $25,000. Floridian John D. MacArthur paid the ransom and present during its recovery.

A Cabochon is a stone that has been shaped as opposed to faceted. An asteriated stone is one that contains a star in the surface.

Jewelry Through the Ages: Victorian Period

Victorian jewelry encompasses any jewelry crafted between the years 1837 and 1855, during the reign of Queen Victoria. This was a time of peace with a focus on industrial and political reform. Literature included authors like Charles Dickens and the Bronte sisters. There was a focus on the difficulties of hard labor, perseverance, and virtue. 

Characteristics of the jewelry from this period include:

• Nature-inspired designs
• Delicate, intricate designs etched into gold
• Lockets and brooches during the day
• Colored gemstones and diamonds in the evning

 The necklace pictured right is an example of Victorian-style jewelry.

What is your jewelry style? Stop by Fountain City Jewelers to find out!