Jewelry Through the Ages: Art Nouveau

The Art Nouveau period for jewelry ran from 1895 to 1915, although the movement really began around 1875 in Paris. This particular period began to die out around World War I but has experienced revival in more recent times. Designers today are still quite influenced by Art Nouveau designs, which were spearheaded by designers like René Lalique. There was less focus on precious stones and more on sculpted gold.

Characteristics of jewelry from this period include:

•  Natural designs (flowers and butterflies)
• Curves and naturalistic designs
• Women sometimes turning into bird- or flower-like forms

The brooch pictured right is an example of Art Nouveau-style jewelry.

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Monday Marvels: The Black Prince’s Ruby

The Black Prince’s Ruby, approximately the same size as a chicken’s egg, is a bead-shaped gemstone weighing about 170 carats.

It is currently set in the Imperial State Crown above the Cullinan II. Of the crown jewels, it’s one of the oldest, dating back to the 14^th Century when it was owned by its namesake, Edward of Woodstock, the Black Prince.

The referred to as a “ruby”, this gemstone is actually a spinel. More common than an actual ruby, spinels are not as hard or as dense as rubies. While not a ruby, however, it is the largest uncut spinel in the world, having never been properly cut.

The picture to the right shows Queen Victoria at her coronation, wearing the Imperial State Crown, which features the Black Prince’s Ruby front and center.

Jewelry Through the Ages: Edwardian Period

The Edwardian Period began when Edward succeeded his mother, Queen Victoria, as King of England. This period lasted from 1901 to 1910. Edward was a leader amongst the fashionable, with a fondness for art and fashions from Continental Europe. Art in this era was greatly influenced by the development of cars and electricity as well as Art Nouveau.  

Characteristics of jewelry from this period include:

• Expensive gems (diamonds, emeralds, rubies)
• Elaborate designs
• Light and delicate

The pin pictured right is an example of Edwardian-style jewelry.

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Monday Marvels: The Sancy Diamond

The Sancy Diamond is a 55.23-carat, pale yellow diamond that is likely Indian of origin. This diamond is a shield-shaped cut with two back-to-back crowns.

The known history of the diamond dates back to approximately 1570 and is quite long and colorful. Below is an approximate timeline:

1570: Purchased by Nicolas de Harlay, seigneur de Sancy, the French ambassador to Turkey. Between approximately 1570 and 1605, de Sancy loaned the gem to Henry III of France, who used it to decorate the cap that concealed his premature baldness. He also loaned the gem to Henry IV to use as security for funding his army.

1605: Sold by de Sancy to James I.

1669: Possessed briefly by Charles I and then his third son, James II. James later sold the diamond to Cardinal Mazarin of France, who gave it to the queen.

1828: Purchased by Prince Demidoff. The history is largely unknown prior to this date.

1865: Sold to an Indian prince, who sold it again a year later.

1867: Displayed at the Paris Exposition for a million francs.

1906: Bought, after another period of unknown ownership, by William Waldorf Astor. It remained with the Astor family for 72 years.

1978: Sold to the Louvre, where it now resides in the Apollo Gallery.

Jewelry Through the Ages: Arts and Crafts Period

The Arts and Crafts period for jewelry lasted from 1894 to 1923. Arts and Crafts was an international design movement led by artist and writer William Morris. As a result of industrialization, there was a rekindling of the desire for handcrafted items, particularly ones that highlighted the natural beauty of a particular item or material.

Characteristics of jewelry from this period include:

• Simple in pattern
• Colorful, uncut stones
• Handmade craftsmanship

The items pictured right are examples of Arts and Crafts-style jewelry.

What is your jewelry style? Stop by Fountain City Jewelers to find out!